Jeju Island, 7th Dec 2010

After breakfast we went to see the Duty free shop at Lotte hotel. But it was only for whom taking flight abroad so I and my sister went to see their garden where lots of korean dramas were taken. It's not that we wanted to see it because of the drama but as staying at Lotte is way more expensive we were wondered how nicely they decorated it. But except tree fake windmills we couldn't find any interesting thing. so we went back to our hotel.

Then we checked out and left our baggage at the concierge and got on Seoiljoo bus to go to Mt. Songak. We saw Mt. Songak yesterday on way to Mosulpo and got curious by its shape like a helmet. We asked the driver to drop us near the mountain then he passed the one we supposed to be Mt. Songak then he pulled off the bus near a hill and pointed the top, explaining the way to get there. We thanked him and got off. When we checked the map again on the pavement, we found that the mountain we wanted to go was Mt. Sanbang, not Songak.

Felt a little stupid but anyway we set off to the real Mt. Songak. Then a guy came towards us and asked the direction to the mountain behind us. Of course we had no idea and asked whether he knows anything about the two Mountains. He said he walked the Olle course no.8 and saw nothing that interests him. In fact no.8 course passes the two mountains but we didn't care much what he told us, so just followed the sign. On the road we saw quite various vegetable growing on the field such as cabbage, white big radish, garlic, spring onion and cotton. And this was the first time i saw cotton on the plant, so as cabbage.

After a while we were somehow heading to Mt. Sanbang with a unspoken agreement. Walking in strong wind we wanted to rest a little and we saw an old lady getting into a storage. Then we asked her to let us to rest there for a while from the wind and she allowed. When we were checking the map an old man came near us, so we asked the direction to Mt. Sanbang. He told us to go back a little and go along the load behind this field. After having a look of his greenhouse and cherry tomatoes we followed his direction.

Probably after 30 mins we saw a temple, Sanbangsa and its famous cave temple Sanbanggulsa. Then when we stepped up the stairs we saw the coastline shaped like dragon's head and quite a few fishing boat gathered in groups looking a bit like they are having a battle. We went straight up to see the cave temple with the ticket costs 2,500 KRW pp. There were so many stairs and we got scared of coming down later as we over used our legs for the last few days.

After bumping into a temple cat and a couple of swallows we finally arrived at the gave. Maybe I expected too much or it's just that me not being a buddhist. I was a little dissapointed and disgusted by what they used for the sake of religion. The cave wasn't deep but looked just beautiful and fragile. But I couldn't stop feeling sorry for what human have done to nature, spoiling like this.



With an amazement and disappointment we got on Seoiljoo bus via Sagye. Actually we could have got on this in the morning then we wouldn't have needed to walk in cold. But it was fun to see all the vegetables on the field and to meet the people. Probably after about 40mins ? we got off at Suhgypo Hang(harbor) to go to the famous fall, Cheonjiyon Pokpo. At the entrance there were a lot of tour buses and students on a school trip, and these put me off a bit to get in the tourist park. After buying the Gamgyulzinbbang, which is mandarin flavoured steamed bread famous among some bloggers, and coffee we went in to the park.

As Jeju is in 'far south' of Korea, autumn seemed to come late. Few of the trees are reddened but still most of trees looked green made a great scenery with the water from the fall. Listening to the sound made me feeling very calm. So we stayed for few minutes then left to see Saeyon Bridge which we saw on way to the fall over the harbor. We were extremely tired but enjoyed the last sunset in Jeju there.


So we get on 600 at Suhgypo Hang(harbor) then fetched our bags at hotel then arrived at the airport an hour early. When we went to get boarding pass, we could get 30 mins earlier one because it was almost empty. After a cup of mandarin ice cream, we got on board. On the plane I looked down the night scene of Korea. It is such a small country and there is no such a country like country. Everywhere was lightened and the highways were connecting big bunches of lights, beaming itself in orange.

Jeju Island, 6th Dec 2010

We started the morning with yummy super size breakfast again, and left hotel quickly to go Wu Island. Wu Island is on the east of Jeju and is famous for its a white coral beach and Gumulleh(black sand) beach and mysterious cave, Dongangyunggul, where told a whale lives. So we got on Seoiljoo bus at the Entrance of Jungmoon Tourist Complex and changed at the bus stand in Suhgwypo City Center to Dongiljoo bus. After about 2 hours of bus ride, we got off at Sungsan Hang(harbor). The harbor smelled fermenting anchovies and the sky looked not good. we ran into the ticket office. After filling the boarding card and got the ticket for two for 5.500 KRW inc. tax for getting into the island. The lady behind the ticket office said there is a wave alert, so we need to take the boat back at 1, otherwise we might not going to be able to leave the island till tomorrow. So basically we had an hour in the island but there was no choice so we got on board.

Looking Sungsanbong, mountain made after a volcano, getting further, we arrived at the Wu do(island) harbor in about 20 mins. As soon as we got off, I saw a local bus waiting for the people. I ran to it and asked whether it goes to Gumulleh and the driver said 'get on'. But my sister went to see the map and I ran to bring her. Soon the driver started the engine and was turning its head towards the villages. We nearly missed the bus but thanks to the driver, we finally got a sit at the back.

After going through some peaceful little villages and black earth fields we got off at Gumulleh. The first thing got in my eye was the statue of Haenyo. Haenyo is name for Jeju's traditional women divers. They are skilled divers swim under sea without air tank. And the shellfishes you get especially natural Geonbok is caught by these water ladies.

Behind the statue I could see the beach of black sand and beautifully layered cliff wrapping around it. We went down and a family coming up the stairs told us the cave is underwater today. But we breathed the soften air under the cliff of amazing stripes and headed to the lighthouse on the mountain over the cliff. And this climbing path was Olle Trekking Course no. 1-1. On way up to the lighthouse we saw the village, black sand beach, a reservoir for farming and crows flying over it. Such a great view. The wind vanished in the scene. We couldn't helping laughing somehow. In fact it was extremely windy up there but thought I would have regretted a lot if we didn't make to here because of the weather, and thought of the people I like to come with again, hopefully in better weather and not in hurry. We came back to where the driver dropped us and told us to come back by 12:40 for the bus. It was 12:30 and there were no one but seller at some stalls. We were not hungry but wanted to buy something. So we got a pack of roasted peanut, which is Wu island famous for, and peanut Boong-uh Bbang, and again got offered some free mandarins. Finally the bus come. There were no one on it. Passing the mountain and reservoir on the side, it came out to the sea again. And there was the white coral beach. I asked to the driver whether that's that. He even stopped the bus a little for us to take pictures and told us it's because of the red coral under the sea but somehow it makes white coral beach and it's only in Wu do nowhere else. It wasn't a big beach but the colour was bright and the combination it makes with
clear sea blue was just amazing. I'm definately coming back, I told to the driver.


At exactly 5 to 1pm we arrived at the harber and got on the boat. apparently the alert delayed till 3pm but in case it changes, we should have left.

Then we had no fixed schedule for the day, so decided to go to Soisokak where my sister wanted to go the most. On Dongiljoo bus for about 40mins, we got off by the driver's call, then walked with the navigation map on the phone. Walking along a small river with no water, from not so far a way we could see some tourists like us passing over a bridge. When we got there we saw the arrows again. Following the route automatically, we arrived at Soisokak. It was a valley where fresh water and sea water meet starting with a cliff of the small river. It wasn't big but looking beautiful with the deep turquoise water. A family was on a kayak. I can't remember the price but it wasn't that expensive or cheap. But anyway I was eager to see Jungbang Pokpo(falls) so we left it quickly and walked on Olle no.6.



It was relatively easy compared to the 14-1. But having the sun on face was quite tiring. Most of the course was on the coastline and at some place we could see people fishing on rocks. After Kal Hotel, we were exhausted and the sky was turning dark. But a guy told us the small fall is not far so we can get there before it goes completely dark. As he told us we found So(small) Jungbang falls. I normally like falls but this one was tiny and pretty and seeing its water disappears through the rocks under it was somehow magical.

Next to the fall, there was Olle office where you can buy the guide book and maps and get some information about the courses. My sister bought the book and passport which you can get Olle stamps at some spots. The lady at the office told us the Dae(big) Jungbang fall isn't far so we headed to there. But, around 6 when we got there the ticket office was already closed and anyway we couldn't think anything else but food and rest.

We got on a taxi to find a restaurant called Giugnanunzip which we got recommended to go at the tourist office next to the fall and arrived in 5 mins at the restaurant. It was not so great looking but we could feel that it's loved by the locals. As soon as we ordered a small size Haemultang(mixed seafood soup, 25.000 KRW), other groups came the tables got all full. Hmm, again the taste wasn't amazing and made me to wonder Jeju people's taste on food. Well, I never really like food at restaurants so maybe it's me just not satisfied. Nevertheless price-wise it was good indeed.

After the huge-but-now-became-usual-size dinner we got on 600 bus in front of New Kyungnam Hotel and came back to hotel.

Jeju Island, 5th Dec 2010

Morning!
we woke up at 6:30 and went down to have breakfast. After served to a table near the window, we went to browse what they have for the breakfast buffet. Since I came back from London I was craving for rye bread and cheese. And they had not rye but nice brown bread and soft cheese(not brie but very similar) and swiss muesli! which i absolutely adore, and waffles and they made scambled eggs by order and of course some korean dishes as well.

After a super size breakfast, we left to take a boat to Mara Island. At the Entrance of Jungmoon Tourist Complex, we took Seoiljoo bus which runs western half of Jeju, and there is also Dongiljoo bus runs eastern half of Jeju, paid 1000 KRW per each and after 30-40 mins, got off at Hamori to go Mosulpo Hang(harbor). We went down a street seemingly leading to the harbor and found lots of Hoeh(sashimi) restaurants and a Family Mart at a crossing. As soon as we saw the Family Mart, my sister remembered that she read it sells a discount voucher for Mara Island on a blog. We went in and they really have a discount ticket for the Mara Island boat, which cuts about 20% off. We bought the ticket for 11.800 KRW pp instead of 14.000 KRW Yay!

After filling the form to get on board we changed the tickets for the boarding pass at the boarding terminal. We got on board quickly as the boat was just about to leave.
*Apparently it runs every hour but as it's quite a long journey about 45mins for one way, and the island isn't that big to spend whole day, I recommend you to go in the morning and come back around lunch time and spend afternoon somewhere else.

Mara Island is at the southernmost of Korea. And only 9 families are living there at the moment. But it has a church, a buddhist temple, a school with three children and three teachers and quite a few Zajangmyon restaurants as it became famous after a TV show. So we decided to have that for lunch.

Coming near to the island we saw 4 black big nose hole looking caves under golden green field and all the people on the boat got cheered even after a long journey on the shaking boat. As soon as we got off there were a lot of mini carriages parked at the harbor, waiting to take tourists. But as neither of us has a driving license nor any attempt to drive in this peaceful little island, we walked along the fenced coastline, having golden reed field on one side and deep greenish blue sea and black rock cliff on the other. Over there on the sea 10-12 fishing boats were busy lifting the net.


After the lighthouse we saw a big church, not as big as ones in Seoul but considering the size of the island, then I got slightly scared of the religion coming to the tiny island, having a monument and spoiling the landscape. In fact it wasn't a ugly one and it's also where some people have their life in but I couldn't stop thinking it is exaggerated in size. And it wasn't only the christian church but the buddhist as well.

After spending few minutes at the southernmost point, getting bumped three dogs and lots of wild cactus and its fruits, we turned back to the harbor, and on the way we arrived in a village. There were few restaurants, and we found the original place where sells seafood version of Zajangmyon which normally has pork in it. We sat outside and ordered a normal size (5.000 KRW) to share as we were still full after huge breakfast. The dish had some seaweed and seafood like squid and shells. The staff told us the owner invented with the ingredients from the island for the fishers who visited the island and wanted some light meals. The taste wasn't as great as I would go again, but not bad to try.

At 12:30, we took the boat back to the main island and headed to O'sulloc Tea Museum by taxi( prox 10,000 KRW). When we get off, the driver told us to call another taxi or do hitchhike after the museum as there is no public transport near by. I got slightly worried but anyway thanked and went into the museum.

O'sulloc is a tea brand owned by a big corporate which has a tea farm in Jeju and produces tea and tea related food and cosmetics. I've been to their two branches in Seoul before, one in Myungdong and the other in Insadong, and I liked their tea and green tea ice cream a lot. And this time I wanted to buy some tea for my friends.

As we walked in there were lots of cups in display explaining the tea history in korea and collection of tea cups from some European and Asian countries, and at the end we got into the shop and cafe section. The staff were demonstrating tea making process and selling some tea for discounted price. I bought 4 packs and got 2 for free and happily ordered an ice ream and went up to see the farm.

Few years ago I went to Bosung where is the most famous place for tea in korea and happened to go an organic tea farm. The trees there were not trimmed like in pictures.
it was just bunch of bushes spreading its branches in no order, the taste was great though. But this O'sulloc one was cleanly trimmed, nicely lined. It looked beautiful from distance. But when we walked through it, I saw forcefully trimmed top and broken branches. I thought maybe they are sort of display not for real cause I couldn't believe they make such great tea from these trees.

While we were strolling in the farm we spotted the blue and red arrows meaning we were on one of Olle trekking courses. There are about 20 Olle courses all over Jeju now. The one we were on was no.14-1. It was about 3:30 and we had finished the day's plan already so followed the arrows. When we checked on the map we were at half way so thought it would be not so hard to finish before dusk. Probably after 20 mins the blue and red ribbons leaded us into a road covered with horse shit, then a gate blocked us. But the people who were walking in front us we were on the right way and just slip under the gate.
It started to worry a bit as the sun was going down and the map said we still have long to go. In front of us there was a forest and we thought we can not loose the people before us, so we almost ran to catch them up. After about 1and half hour of scary forest path we heard human voice and saw some artificial structure, then got into a village.

We were relieved and proud of ourselves for finishing it even if it wasn't full course but we didn't give up in the middle and slowly stepped forward to find a bus stop. The first people we met on the road were a couple loading mandarin boxes onto a truck. We asked where we can catch a bus and they pointed. After few steps their truck passed us and stopped at a small storage. Both my sis and I were thirsty and hungry, we asked wether we could buy some mandarins then they just gave us some for free. how generous they are! we thanked and sat by a pond in the middle of village and ate the delicious fresh mandarins and continued to walk. When we found an exotic bean ivy growing on a wall, a mini van passed us and two old ladies got off. We stopped one and asked what this bean is. She answered with strong Jeju dialect and explained that the bean is not ripe. Unfortunately I and my sis missed half of what she said because of the dialect though, she made us feel being in a very center of Jeju.

At the end of the village there were an old couple having a conversation behind a big light yellow mandarin tree. Since I got on this island I saw two types of mandarin trees and I thought the bigger mandarin is Hallabong which is Jeju's famous and expensive fruit. So I asked them wether it is Hallabong. They told me it's Hagyul which you eat in Summer, and the smaller one I saw on the street is Noji which is about to harvest. They also told me about Hanulnaegi which I never saw in any other place in Korea before but all over Jeju, and according to them it's used only for medicine. Then they offered us free mandarins too. We thanked and fell in love with Jeju people.

With a heavy bag filled with mandarins we came out the village and found the bus stop. But the bus had passed 20 mins ago and the next one was coming in an hour and half. So we decided to take taxi. But there were no taxis passing by either. So I stopped a car to ask to take us somewhere near to catch a bus. A middle aged couple said us to get on. It was the first time for me to hitchhike and it was the first car I stopped. and they said Yes without any hesitation. Then when we said we are starving so going back to hotel, they told us they know a famous Hoeh restaurant in Mosulpo, which is a bit pricey but if we want to try Bang-uh, better go there. Actually we both love Hoeh and knew it is Bang-uh season. So we asked them to drop us at the restaurant.

The restaurant was the one we passed in the morning to get the Mara island boat, which is called Choinamdan Hoeh Zib. It was packed with people and we got a table in a corner.
After ordering the small size various Hoeh(sashimi) set for 60.000 KRW, they started to bring little dishes of oyster, shellfishes, octopus and claps, and finally 20 little mountains of Bang-uh. To be honest I didn't enjoy half of the little dishes but the Bang-uh was just great. Fresh and not so chewy and nutty at the same time. Even before finishing the mountains we were absolutely full, so skipped the soup and other dishes. It was for at least four people not two. Anyway we got Pabbingsoo(ice flakes with redbean paste) for dessert, I didn't know but apparently it is served for dessert in not other Hoeh restaurants, but in Jeju.

So again, with fully filled bellies, Two girls came back to Jungmoon.

Jeju Island, 4th Dec 2010

After landing at the airport, coming out through the gate, first thing came into my eye were palm trees. Since I grew up in seoul where most of trees on the street are boring platanustrees, i never saw a palm tree on the street and this one was even big, made me feel in a very exotic place after 50mins flight from Gimpo.
*From Gimpo Airport they have quite many flights to Jeju and it's connected with subway line no.5 and no.9
*you can also take a boat from Busan or other big harbors in korea. The one you can get in Busan leaves everyday at 19:00 and arrive in Jeju next day at 6:00 in the morning.

I and my sister took route 600 which is the airport connection coach running in a circle in Jeju island to go to Jungmoon Tourist Complex where we booked hotel.
Running about an hour on the bus, I spotted Mt. Halla, a dead volcanic mountain looking close and far at the same time and the famous madarine trees, which of course made unimaginably exotic scene through the window.
*Route 600 departs from Jeju Airport - Crown Plaza hotel - Jungmoon Tourist Complex - Hana Hotel - Hyatt Hotel - Shilla Hotel - Green Villa - Lotte Hotel - Korea Condo - Jeju International Convention Center - Jeju Worldcup Stadium - New Kyoungnam Hotel - Suhgypo Hang(harbor) - Paradise Hotel - Kal Hotel
and it leaves every 15 mins from 6:20 to 21:50
*You can also use T-Money Card on any Jeju buses, but not other credit cards.
*if it's first time to visit Jeju and has no driving license or are not renting a car, Jungmoon is quite convenient as there are many beautiful places near by and easy to find buses and cabs.

Checking in, what? No Breakfast?
The receptionist told us we didn't order for breakfast. No way-. My sister called the travel agency and after few minutes of a cold argument, apparently they booked us for non-breakfast one without asking or confirming it, anyway at the end we got breakfast for free, yay!!!, which probably cost 15000 KRW for one person, so, capital YAY!!!
*In Jungmoon there are a few hotels and some restaurants you can have breakfast but it's not really convenient either cheap so check whether you get breakfast included when you book a hotel.


Somehow they didn't have many guest in the hotel and gave us sea-view room, looking blue blue sea and sand beach from the balcony. After taking some photos, we went down to find Joosangeolli which is an volcanic geological site looked not far from where we stayed. We walked along the beach. The water sans trash, seeing through clear, so as the sand. Actually Jeju island was one of the favourite destination for honeymoon for long and still is loved by many tourists. So I thought it would be quite spoiled and dirty but it keeps its fine nature so well, I fell in love in a sight.

Not like what we thought Joosangeolli was quite far on foot, i think we walked about an hour in slow pace along the seashore. After paying 2000 KRW per each for entry we followed other tourists and saw bunch of some weird black hexagonal pillars spreading wide under where I stood. I remembered a painting I saw from a text book when I was tiny and that was this view, and it shocked me again with the sunset behind.

leaving the site we checked the map and continued walking to Cheonjeyeon Falls as it seemed not such far. But on way there the sun finally set completely and I needed food. So we turned back to hotel but somehow, what a magic the falls appeared in front of us, the ticket office was closed and all the lights were gone though, we went through the gate and climbed up the dramatically curved bridge to see the fall. Well, there is always a reason if they let you to go without paying the entry, we couldn't see a thing in dark and were quite scared on the bridge, so didn't dare to go to the hightest point to see the falls properly. So this time we turned straight back to the hotel.

As we were starving we stopped at a seafood restaurant which we never wanted to get in but no choice as I couldn't see any other non-meat restaurant. We ordered Haemool Tukbaegi(seafood soup) and Hoeh(sashimi) Bibimbab and both were not bad but upsettingly overpriced.
*It seemed most of restaurants in Jeju are quite expensive, even the taste wasn't any great as the price. So eat Jeju food and just try to forget the price either find some cheap options in the cities.